San Tung Chinese Restaurant

San Tung is the kind of restaurant that makes food-obsessed locals argue passionately about whether it is the best Chinese restaurant in San Francisco. (It might be. ) Located on Irving Street in the Inner Sunset, just blocks from Golden Gate Park, this no-frills Chinese restaurant has been packing in families and food lovers since 1978 thanks to one dish that transcends all others: the dry-fried chicken wings.

These wings are unlike anything at a typical American restaurant. The chicken is fried to an impossibly crispy exterior, then tossed in a sweet, tangy, slightly spicy glaze that caramelizes on contact. The result is a wing that is simultaneously crunchy, chewy, sweet, and savory.

Kids who claim they do not like chicken wings will eat six of these without pausing. The wings are the signature dish, and skipping them would be like visiting Ghirardelli without getting a sundae.

Beyond the wings, the menu is deep and family-friendly. The hand-pulled noodles come in various preparations -- dry-fried, in soup, or pan-fried with a crackling crispy bottom. The pan-fried noodles are a visual spectacle and a textural delight that kids enjoy breaking apart.

Fried rice with egg and vegetables is a reliable choice for pickier eaters. The dumplings (boiled or pan-fried) are another strong order.

The atmosphere is utilitarian -- fluorescent lighting, basic tables, quick turnover. This is not a place for a lingering special occasion dinner. It is a place where you sit down, order quickly, receive enormous portions of extraordinary food within 10 minutes, eat until you are stuffed, and leave satisfied.

For families with young kids, that speed of service is a huge advantage. No one sits at San Tung for two hours.

Pricing is remarkably reasonable for the quality. The famous wings run about $16 for a large plate. Noodle dishes are $13-16. A family of four can eat extremely well for $50-70, and you will likely have leftovers. They accept both cash and cards.

The restaurant is a 5-minute walk from the eastern entrance to Golden Gate Park, making it a natural post-park lunch or dinner stop. It is also near the N-Judah Muni line for easy transit access. Parking on Irving Street has 2-hour metered spots that are manageable on weekdays but tight on weekends.